Does gold-plated sterling silver tarnish, and why?

ZKZ Editorial TeamMain answer · Product & gemmology desk

Gold itself does not tarnish, but a thin gold layer over silver can let the silver underneath react. If the plating is very thin, scratched or porous, tarnish can show through or form beneath it.

Why it happens

Our advice A plated layer is only a thin skin on the silver. Rubbing wears it at the high points, and microscopic gaps let air and moisture reach the metal underneath. Silver then reacts and the dark film appears, sometimes as spots.

It depends How soon that happens depends on the plating thickness, the base metal below and the wearer's skin and environment.

What "vermeil" means

Fact Under 16 CFR 23.4, "vermeil" may describe a product with a sterling silver base coated on all significant surfaces with gold of at least 10 karat and a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns. The Guides add that using a base metal such as nickel under the gold should be disclosed.

Our advice So vermeil is a defined quality of gold plating on silver. A product only described as "gold plated" does not meet that definition and may be thinner.

How to slow tarnish

1. Wear it last and remove it first, away from perfume, lotion and water.
2. Clean with a soft cloth and plain warm water.
3. Avoid silver dips and abrasive polishes.
4. Store it dry and separate, ideally in a sealed pouch.

What to do if it tarnishes

• Wipe gently first to see whether the dark spots lift.
• If the gold has worn away, you cannot polish it back.
• A jeweller can re-plate the piece, usually after cleaning the base.

Our advice Ask whether a barrier layer is used between the silver and the gold. The answer tells you something about the maker's process.

Is it worth buying

It depends Gold-plated silver is a reasonable choice for occasional wear. If you want a gold look that lasts through daily use, ask for plating thickness details, or consider solid gold.

Spotting the early signs

Our advice Look under good light for a dull patch, a brownish tint or tiny dark spots near clasps, edges and links. Those places wear first. Catching it early lets you clean the piece gently and change how you wear it before more gold is lost.

Uncertain We cannot say how long any particular gold-plated piece will stay tarnish-free. Thickness varies and is rarely stated.

Related reading: Is rhodium plating the same as white gold plating on silver? · Sterling Silver vs White Gold: Which Should You Choose?

Sources

• 16 CFR 23.4, FTC Jewelry Guides: misuse of the word "vermeil"
• 16 CFR 23.3, FTC Jewelry Guides: misrepresentation as to gold content and plating
• GIA, Diamond care and cleaning

Fact = stated by the cited source. Our advice = editorial recommendation. Uncertain / it depends = limits of what can be said in general.