What does “vermeil” mean, and how is it different from gold-plated silver?

ZKZ Editorial TeamMain answer · Product & gemmology desk

In the US, "vermeil" has a specific meaning under the FTC Jewelry Guides: a sterling silver base coated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of at least 10 karat, at a minimum thickness equivalent to about 2.5 microns of fine gold. "Gold plated silver" is a broader term, and the plating can be thinner. So all vermeil is gold on silver, but not all gold-plated silver is vermeil.

What vermeil means

Fact 16 CFR 23.4 says an industry product may be described as "vermeil" if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, that is of reasonable durability and has a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half microns (about 100 millionths of an inch) of fine gold.

Fact The same section says it is deceptive to use "vermeil" for a product in which the sterling silver has been covered with a base metal such as nickel and then plated with gold, unless this is disclosed.

What gold plating means

Fact 16 CFR 23.3 says that a product described as "gold plate" or "gold plated" should have a surface plating of gold alloy of such thickness and coverage that reasonable durability is assured, and that the term should be immediately preceded by the karat fineness of the alloy. It also says that "gold" used without qualification on a plated product can be misleading.

Our advice So a listing that says "18K gold plated 925 silver" is a plated product, with a stated karat and base metal. A listing that says only "gold plated" has left out information the Guides expect.

How to compare listings

• Base metal. Vermeil: sterling silver. Gold plated: any base metal, including silver.
• Minimum gold karat. Vermeil: 10 karat. Gold plated: the stated karat, placed in front of the words "gold plated".
• Minimum thickness. Vermeil: about 2.5 microns. Gold plated: no fixed figure in the Guides, but the plating must be of reasonable durability.

Uncertain Reasonable durability is not defined by a single number in the Guides, so thin plating can still be described as plated, as long as it is not misleading.

What to ask

1. Is the base 925 sterling silver?
2. What karat is the gold layer, and how thick is it?
3. Are all significant surfaces covered?
4. What does the seller advise for care, and can it be re-plated?

Our advice Both wear with time, but a thicker layer lasts longer. Avoid abrasive cleaners and chemicals, and store pieces separately.

It depends "Vermeil" is a useful sign of a thicker layer in the US, but in other countries the term may be used differently, and thickness claims should be asked for in writing.

Related reading: Silver Purity Explained: 925, 999, 800 and Plated Metals · What Is the Best Metal for Jewelry? Silver, Gold, Platinum Compared

Sources

• 16 CFR 23.4, FTC Jewelry Guides: misuse of the word "vermeil"
• 16 CFR 23.3, FTC Jewelry Guides: misrepresentation as to gold content and plating
• 16 CFR 23.5, FTC Jewelry Guides: misrepresentation as to silver content

Fact = stated by the cited source. Our advice = editorial recommendation. Uncertain / it depends = limits of what can be said in general.