What is the difference between melee and centre stones?

ZKZ Editorial TeamMain answer · Product & gemmology desk

A centre stone is the main stone in a piece, and it is usually graded and reported on its own. Melee are small diamonds set around it or along a band, typically sold and graded in parcels. Because of this, a ring with a large total weight can contain a small centre stone, so compare the centre stone's weight and the total weight separately.

Definitions

Fact GIA defines melee as small diamonds, either single cut or full cut, weighing less than 1/5 carat, and notes that the exact size range varies from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee can be as small as 0.001 ct.

Fact GIA also says melee are sorted by colour and clarity before being sold to jewellery manufacturers in large parcels, and that it is not practical to grade each one, so you should not expect a grading report for each melee stone.

Carat weight and total carat weight

Fact GIA explains that "carat weight" applies to an individual stone, such as the centre stone, and that total carat weight (tcw) describes the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece. A ring with many small stones totalling 2.50 carats can cost far less than a solitaire of 2.50 ct, because larger stones are rarer.

Fact The FTC Guides say that a carat is 200 milligrams, and that a weight stated in decimals should be accurate to the last decimal place (16 CFR 23.18).

How to compare

1. Look at both numbers. Find the centre stone's weight and the total weight.
2. Check the centre stone's report. Colour, clarity and cut details apply to it, if a report is provided.
3. Ask about the melee. What colour and clarity range are the small stones, and how many are there?
4. Compare the look. A halo or pave of melee can make a ring look bigger, but it does not add weight to the centre stone.
5. Check the origin wording for all stones, centre and melee.

What melee are good for

• Adding sparkle and the look of size at a lower cost.
• Pave, halo and eternity designs.
• Matching a set of earrings or a band.

Our advice A good listing says how many small stones there are, their size range, and their quality range, and gives the centre stone's own details.

It depends Whether you want a bigger centre or more sparkle from melee depends on your taste and budget.

Uncertain Trade size ranges for melee vary, so ask the seller what range they use.

Related reading: Eternity Band Carat Weight: What You Get at Each Size · Setting Styles for Engagement Rings: Solitaire, Halo, Pave and Bezel

Sources

• GIA 4Cs, Melee diamonds: tiny diamonds, big impact
• 16 CFR 23.18, FTC Jewelry Guides: misrepresentation of weight and "total weight"

Fact = stated by the cited source. Our advice = editorial recommendation. Uncertain / it depends = limits of what can be said in general.