What is Argentium or tarnish-resistant silver, and how does it compare with 925?
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A buyer sees "Argentium 935" on a silver ring listing and wonders what it is, whether it is better than ordinary sterling silver, and whether it can be called sterling at all.
Argentium is a brand of tarnish-resistant silver alloy. It replaces part of the copper in sterling silver with germanium, and it is sold as Argentium 935 (at least 93.5% silver) and Argentium 960 (at least 96% silver). It tarnishes less than traditional 925 sterling, but it is not tarnish-proof, and it is a different product, so the listing should name it.
What it is
Fact The maker's fact file describes Argentium 935 as containing at least 93.5% silver and Argentium 960 at least 96% silver, with germanium replacing part of the copper in the alloy. Traditional sterling silver is 92.5% silver, with the balance usually copper.
Fact Argentium and the Rio Grande supplier guide explain that tarnish resistance comes from a germanium-rich oxide at the surface, that the alloy resists firescale during fabrication, and that it can be hardened by heat treatment.
Can it be called "sterling"?
Fact Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, "sterling" or "sterling silver" may be used only for a product that is at least 925/1,000 pure silver (16 CFR 23.5). Argentium 935 and 960 are above that fineness.
Uncertain Whether a seller may use "sterling" for Argentium depends on the market and on how it is described. Some markets and hallmarking offices have their own rules for alloy names and fineness marks, so the listing should state the fineness that is stamped, for example 935 or 960, and not leave it to the buyer to guess.
How it compares with 925 sterling
- Tarnish. Argentium is tarnish-resistant, not tarnish-proof, according to the producer. Test results published by the producer cover sulfur, sweat and UV exposure.
- Price. It is normally more expensive, because of the alloy and the extra processing.
- Hardness and wear. It can be hardened by heat treatment, but it is still silver and will scratch and bend. We cannot say how it compares in your use without testing.
- Repair and plating. Jewellers who are used to sterling may need to adjust their methods for Argentium, and plating or soldering practice may differ.
What to ask a seller
- Which Argentium grade is it (935 or 960), and what is stamped on the piece?
- Is it supplied by the licensed producer?
- Is it plated, and if so, with what?
- Who will repair or resize it?
It depends Argentium suits people who dislike polishing silver. If you want a repairable, widely available alloy, ordinary 925 is easier to service almost anywhere.
Related reading: Silver Purity Explained: 925, 999, 800 and Plated Metals · Does 925 Sterling Silver Tarnish? Causes and Fixes
Sources
- Argentium Silver, Argentium fact file (PDF)
- Rio Grande, The Argentium revolution
- 16 CFR 23.5, FTC Jewelry Guides: misrepresentation as to silver content
Fact = stated by the cited source. Our advice = editorial recommendation. Uncertain / it depends = limits of what can be said in general.
Other perspectives from the ZKZ team
State the stamped fineness, not just the brand name. A buyer comparing "925" with "935" should be able to see exactly what is in each, and what the stamp says.
If your skin tarnishes silver quickly, Argentium can reduce the polishing. If you need a stone-set ring that will be resized often, ask about servicing before you choose it.
Ask a factory whether it works with Argentium, and for the alloy supplier's documentation. Not every workshop has the experience or the right materials.
Have a different question? Ask our team, or browse more answers in Talk.
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