What is the thickness of vermeil and does a seller have to state it?

ZKZ Editorial TeamMain answer · Product & gemmology desk

In the US, the FTC Jewelry Guides give a definition: vermeil is a sterling silver base coated on all significant surfaces with gold of at least 10 karat and a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns. The guide does not say that the thickness must appear on a listing, but a seller who calls a piece vermeil should be able to show that it meets the definition.

What the FTC guide says

Fact Section 23.4 of the FTC Jewelry Guides says an item may be described as vermeil if it consists of a base of sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of not less than 10 karat fineness, of reasonable durability and with a minimum thickness throughout equivalent to two and one half microns (approximately 100/1,000,000ths of an inch) of fine gold. This is a US guide.

Fact A note to the same section says it is unfair or deceptive to use "vermeil" for a product in which the sterling silver has been covered with a base metal such as nickel and then plated with gold, unless that is disclosed.

Fact The Association of Professional Piercers says gold plated, gold-filled and vermeil jewelry has a very thin gold surface, measured in millionths of an inch, that can wear or chip off.

What to do

Our advice Ask the seller to state the base metal (sterling), the gold karat and the minimum layer thickness, and to say whether the whole surface is covered.

Our advice Expect wear on rings and other pieces that rub. Avoid harsh cleaners on gold-plated items.

It depends The FTC guide is not binding law in itself, and other markets such as the UK or EU may define vermeil differently or not at all.

Our advice If a seller does not give the thickness, ask. Compare listings on the same terms, and look at the care instructions and warranty, which tell you how the seller expects the finish to wear.

Uncertain We did not verify definitions of vermeil outside the US. Check local rules before using the word in another market.

Related reading: How can I check plating thickness and adhesion on a production sample? · Custom Rings: Choosing Metal, Stone and Setting

Sources

• 16 CFR 23.4, FTC Jewelry Guides: misuse of the word "vermeil"
• Association of Professional Piercers, Jewelry for initial piercings

Fact = stated by the cited source. Our advice = editorial recommendation. Uncertain / it depends = limits of what can be said in general.